Section 11 EO C490.06 – ERECT, TEAR DOWN AND PACK TENTS

When selecting a tent site on snow-covered ground, choose an area free from crevices. Prod the surface to ensure that a flat base is selected. The snow shall be removed until a firm base is exposed. The tent shall, if possible, be positioned so that its side is located downwind to avoid drifting snow blocking the entranceway.

When setting up an exercise site, it is important to know where to locate your sites for tents. There are factors to consider when doing this and they should be followed correctly as it is beneficial to everyone. The factors to consider are:

The objective of this activity is to have the cadets find a site that is suitable for setting up tents.

Nil.

Nil.

Have cadets, in pairs, find suitable sites for setting up tents.

A module of tent is comprised of a canvas section supported by tubular aluminum framework. It measures 2.5 m long by 5.5 m wide. The frame of a modular tent consists of two arch frames and three purlins (the horizontal beams along the length of the roof that support the canvas). The arch frame is hinged at the peak and the eaves. When folded the arch measures 2.75 m long. The purlins are 2.5 m long and connect two arches; one purlin at the peak and two more at each eave. They are locked into place without the use of tools. The framework is anchored with steel pegs which are inserted at the base of each arch and can be diagonally cross braced with cables or straps, between the eaves and base of the arches, to give an unobstructed inside space and an outside perimeter clear of guy wires. Guy wires are only used when the tent requires further reinforcement.

Note. Created by Director Cadets 3, 2007, Ottawa, ON: Department of National Defence.

Figure 1  Frame

The three tent sections are centre sections, front walls and rear walls. The tent sections attach to one another by means of a series of cord loops and grommets known as “Dutch lacing”. The cord loops are on the opposite side of the grommets requiring all sections to be placed in the same direction. For example, all the cord loops on the right. Tent sections are made of olive green, core-spun, polyester-cotton, rip-stop woven material treated to be water-, rot- and flame-resistant. The sod cloth which extends 40 cm from the foot of each tent section is made from plastic-coated, waterproof material. The windows are screened and have blackout flaps and transparent vinyl panels which are attached with fastener tape (Velcro).

Centre section. This is the canvas roof and side wall covering of a module. It has a window in each side and a chimney opening in the roof.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 1-5), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 2  Centre Section

Front wall. Attaches with grommets and opens with two zippered personnel doors. The front wall includes one window and a closable air vent.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 1-5), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 3  Front Wall

Rear wall. Attaches with cord loops and opens in the centre. The opening reaches the peak of the module and is fastened with toggles, allowing access for large equipment. The rear wall includes two windows.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 1-5), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 4  Rear Wall

Liners. The three common tent sections—centre section, front wall and rear wall—each have corresponding white fabric liners. These provide insulation as well as a light reflective surface, and are made from flame resistant material. The liners are suspended from inside the frame and are laced together similar to the tent sections.

Blackout hallway. Black fabric enclosure, 2.5 m long, attached inside the tent and laced to a grommet by the doorway, to prevent the entranceway from emitting light.

Lacing band. Provides the cord loops, to tie the two tent sections together when the module lacing sequence is disrupted because two grommet ends meet. It is 8.5 m long and 15 cm wide. A strap and a hooked shock cord are at each end to secure it to the frame and keep the band taut against the canvas.

Guy wires. Lines of cord that assist in securing the tent to the ground. Available for situations where the footings cannot be anchored in the ground or where the tent is subject to extreme windy conditions.

Bag tent. This is a flat canvas wrap specifically designed for containing tent sections. It includes a pocket to hold pertinent hardware.

Tools. A mallet, shovel and occasionally a stepladder. Tools are not included.

Explain tent maintenance to the cadets, but do not demonstrate or have the cadets perform.

The following precautionary measures, when followed, will protect the tent components from corrosion, mildew, rot and unnecessary damage and will work to prolong the life and usefulness of the tentage:

Explain, demonstrate and have the cadets perform each step in erecting, tearing down and packing.

Lay Out and Connect the Frame

Expand all arch frames leaving the legs in a folded position and space them in module increments using a purlin as a measure. Connect the purlins to each arch at the peak and eaves.

Lock the Frame

To operate the connecting, locking device on the peak bracket, first ensure the lock is released by:

1.placing the button head pin of the purlin into the bracket keyhole and push it upward in the keyhole slot;

2.moving the sliding bar up to allow the pivot lock to be swung over to hold the purlin in place;

3.moving the sliding bar down to lock the pivot;

4.operating the save bracket lock by lifting the sliding bar; and

5.releasing the arch frame leg from its erected state and moving down the lever lock, located inside the eave bracket.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-5), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 5  Frame Lock

Connect Tent Sections

Identify the tent sections and position them so the front-rear sequence of lacing corresponds to the front and rear wall location. Lace the centre sections together using the dutch lace as follows:

1.Sandwich the grommet side between the flaps on the lacing side.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 6  Canvas Lacing

2.Pass the cord loops through the corresponding grommet holes and then through the next loop working from the centre outwards.

3.Tie off the last loop.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 1-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 7  Canvas Lacing

Raise the Side and Place Canvas

The following steps outline the procedure for raising the modular tent structure and placing the canvas:

1.Ensure the doors on the front and rear walls are closed. If the doors are left open they will be difficult to close after the modular tent is erected.

2.Raise one side of the frame with one person assigned to each arch frame. In windy conditions, temporarily secure the upright section to the ground with the tent pegs.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 8  Erect One Side

3.Place the previously folded canvas on the sloped side of the frame, positioning the master grommets (large holes at the peak of the canvas) over the frame spigots (large point at the peak of the frame), and then unfold the canvas onto the raised side.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 9  Place Canvas

4.Secure eave and foot straps on the raised side.

5.Attach the front and rear walls to the centre sections along the roof line only.

6.Raise the other side of the tent and align legs.

7.Attach save straps (straps on the underside of the canvas that attach to the purlins as illustrated in Figure 10) and bracing cables (support cables as illustrated in Figure 11) but do not tighten.

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 10  Save Straps

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 11  Bracing Cables

8.Complete lacing the end walls to the centre sections.

9.Raise the other side and adjust the positioning and alignment of the arch legs to achieve a smooth canvas fit.

Anchor

The following steps outline the procedure for anchoring the modular tent to the ground:

1.Secure the frame to the ground. Hammer in the steel pegs (two per foot), working from the outside of the tent, so that the pegs are angled inwards (to prevent frame lifting as illustrated in Figure 12).

Note. From C-87-110-000/MS-000 Operational Support and Maintenance Manual for Tent, Main(p. 2-8), by DND Canada, 1983, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1983 by DND Canada.

Figure 12  Drive in Pegs

2.Tighten bracing cables or bracing straps to maximum tension.

3.Attach the foot strap, cinching to the maximum.

4.When using bracing cables, connect the vertical hold anchors with the corresponding D rings at the anchor points along the ground line of the canvas.

5.Drive the pegs into the ground under the sod cloth so that the side wall canvas is taut.

6.Connect the sod cloth flaps with the toggles and loops at the corners and along the sides. Place sod, snow or other suitable material on the sod cloths to prevent the wind from getting underneath them.

A trench is sometimes required when the tent is pitched on poor draining ground such as a flat, clay or heavy soil surfaces or shallow soil over bed rock. Sandy soils or areas which slope off normally do not require drainage trenches. The trench should be 20 cm wide by 15 cm deep. Slope the trench so that it drains away from the tent. Dig outlet drains at the lowest points of the trench, ensuring that they do not interfere with pedestrian or vehicular movement.

Only dig a trench if the situation requires.

PACKING

A diagram of the packing procedures is located at Attachment A.

To pack a modular tent, use the following steps:

1.Lay out the canvas with the outer surface facing the ground, for ease of cleaning.

2.Fold the front and rear walls by:

a.

bringing the peak and sides of the wall toward the centre to square off the wall;

b.

bringing the ends of the walls to the centre of the wall;

c.

folding the wall in half; and

d.

folding the opposite way to complete the process; and

3.Fold the centre section by:

a.

taking the ends of the section and placing them in the centre of the section;

b.

taking one end and folding it across to the other end;

c.

taking the section and folding it into thirds;

d.

folding the section in half; and

e.

folding the section in half in the opposite direction.

The 5- and 10-person arctic tents are bell-shaped with a pentagonal base. Each wall section of the pentagon has a snow flap attached to the bottom portion of its panel. The tent consists of an inner and an outer portion. The inner portion is most commonly used for cadet training and consists of a zipper door, base tie-down points, air vents, stove pipe openings and a reinforced apex for pole insertion. The tent is supported by a single telescopic centre pole and 16 (10-person) or 10 (5-person) guy wires. The guy wires are pegged down with lightweight alloy or plastic pegs.

Note. Created by Director Cadets 3, 2007, Ottawa, ON: Department of National Defence.

Figure 13  10-Person Arctic Tent Parts

Note. From Hero Army Surplus, Army Tents, by heroarmysurplus.com, 2007. Copyright 2007 by heroarmysurplus.com. Retrieved December 2, 2007, from http://heroarmysurplus.com/index.php/cPath/116?osCsid=jncvpsk59lech7i4chhja975q6

Figure 14  5-Person Arctic Tent

Note. From B-GG-302-002/FP-001 Arctic and Sub-Arctic Operations, Part 1(p. 3-11), by DND Canada, 1974, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1974 by DND Canada.

Figure 15  5-Person Arctic Tent Sleeping Arrangement

Note. From Hero Army Surplus, Army Tents, by heroarmysurplus.com, 2007. Copyright 2007 by heroarmysurplus.com. Retrieved December 2, 2007, from http://heroarmysurplus.com/index.php/cPath/116?osCsid=jncvpsk59lech7i4chhja975q6

Figure 16  10-Person Arctic Tent

Note. From B-GG-302-002/FP-001 Arctic and Sub-Arctic Operations, Part 1(p. 3-12), by DND Canada, 1974, Ottawa ON: Department of National Defence. Copyright 1974 by DND Canada.

Figure 17  10-Person Arctic Tent Sleeping Arrangement

The tent must be inspected to ensure the following faults are not present:

Explain and demonstrate the following. Cadets may assist as necessary.

The only difference in erecting these two tents is the number of guy wires. On a 5-person arctic tent there are five wires and on a 10-person arctic tent there are 16. The following outlines the steps to take for erecting a 5- or 10-person arctic tent:

1.Choose a site for the tent (see TP 1 Site Selection).

2.Spread the tent out on the ground with the outside facing up.

3.Ensure the zipper is closed on the front door.

4.Check if the liner is in place; usually it is not in place in a new tent.

5.If the liner is not in place, follow these steps:

6.Peg the corners of the arctic tent.

7.The tent pole will be folded in two. Straighten and lock it into position.

8.The individual (pole person) takes the pole and base plate under the canvas, going through the door and inserting it into the centre eye (reinforced apex) of the tent.

9.Secure the base of the pole onto the base plate and have the pole person hold the pole upright.

10.Before erecting the pole, drive the corner pegs into the ground.

11.Have the pole person extend the pole until the skirt and snow flaps are level with the ground. Use the pegs as a guide; they should be pulled out during this step.

12.The pole will have a shackle that needs to be lifted prior to extending. Be careful of the shackle pinching the pole person's fingers.

13.Lock the shackle into place to secure the height of the tent.

14.Pull on each of the lower guy wires and extend them in line with the seams of the tent.

15.Each guy wire will have an adjuster on it; make sure this adjuster is set to the middle position.

16.Peg the guy wires to the ground using heavy duty pegs.

17.Adjust the guy wires to remove any sag in the lower portion of the tent. The tent should be even in height all the way around.

18.Repeat Steps 14–16 with the upper guy wires. The tent guy wires should never cross with other tents.

19.Adjust and tighten all wires and prop up the door wire if necessary.

20.The two door eave wires can be propped up by placing the wire over an improvised pole, tree branch or other object higher than the door entrance. This keeps the doors from sagging and makes it easier to get in and out of the tent and gives the tent greater stability.

Use the following steps to tear down an arctic tent:

1.Have the pole person enter the tent and hold the pole.

2.Pull out the pegs one at a time and roll up the guy wires and tie them off.

3.Have the pole person lower and remove the pole.

Use the following steps to pack an arctic tent:

1.Lay out the tent with the tent door up and in the centre with zippers closed and remove any debris.

2.Make sure there are no double folds on the underside.

3.Hold the apex securely. The first long fold is made by folding the wings to the centre, with the pegs straight up and down.

4.Straighten and flatten out the arctic tent.

5.Fold in snow flaps across the base.

6.Make the second long fold, repeating the action for the first long fold.

7.Straighten and flatten out the arctic tent.

8.Make the third long fold, repeating the action for the first long fold.

9.Straighten and flatten out the arctic tent.

10.Make the forth long fold by flipping the folds one on top of the other.

11.Make the first cross-fold; fold in the base to the top of the wall.

12.Make the second cross-fold by folding the apex into the base of the inserted pole section, allowing approximately 10 cm of loose fold at the base of the pole section to avoid wear and tear. The top of the pole should be offset.

13.Make the third cross-fold by placing the previous two folds one on top of the other.

14.Insert the tent, base plate and pegs into the bag.

15.Place the remaining two pole sections in the bag beside the tent.

16.Tie up the top of the tent bag.

To select a suitable civilian tent, consider the number of people it will need to accommodate, seasons during which it is being used, weather conditions that may be encountered, the weight of the tent and required features.

Seasons and Conditions

Three-season tents. Designed to offer good ventilation in the spring, summer, and fall, and provide sturdy weather protection in everything but heavy snowfalls and very high winds. Many three-season tents have mesh inner bodies, which reduce condensation, and can often be used without the fly for a cool, bug-proof shelter on hot nights. Three-season tents are airier, less expensive, lighter, more compact and roomier than four-season tents. Their versatility makes them popular with backpackers, paddlers, and cyclists.

Note. From MEC Funhouse 4 Tent, by MEC.ca, 2007, Copyright 2007 by MEC.ca. Retrieved December 2, 2007, from http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_listing.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302702837&bmUID=1196614958520

Figure 18  Three-Season Tent

Four-season tents. Built to protect in extreme weather. They usually come with many poles and have low, curved shapes to shield high winds and reduce snow buildup. Extra guy wires provide more staking options. Fabrics tend to be heavier, with thicker waterproof coatings that make them more weatherproof, but less ventilated, and more susceptible to interior condensation. This additional protection means greater weight and packed size, and may be inappropriate for anything other than ski touring, winter camping, or mountaineering.

Note. From MEC Mondarack Tent, by MEC.ca, 2007, Copyright 2007 by MEC.ca. Retrieved December 2, 2007, from http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_listing.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302702837&bmUID=1196614958520

Figure 19  Four-Season Tent

Tent weights are described as “minimum weight” and “packaged weight”. The minimum weight includes the tent and frame, and the fewest pegs and guy wires necessary to properly set up the tent. Packaged weight includes the full tent, instructions, stuff sacks, repair swatches, all guy wires and pegs. Conditions permitting, weight can be saved by leaving some pegs and components at home, and improvising with materials available at the site.

Tent footprints. These are groundsheets that are custom-fit to the tent. Groundsheets protect tent floors from abrasions, increase waterproofness, and help insulate from the cool ground. Most tents have pre-made footprints, which are sold separately.

Vestibules. This is an excellent way to increase the liveability of a tent. They are useful for storing gear, to peel off wet clothing or put on boots. A pole-supported vestibule will be heavier, but generally larger and more storm-proof.

Setting up the Main Body

Use the following steps to set up the main body of a civilian-pattern dome tent:

1.Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor. A footprint beneath the structure is not necessary for a waterproof tent, but it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor.

2.Assemble all poles carefully.

Shock-corded poles (bungee cord) are meant to keep pole sections in the proper order, not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not hold one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth, or toss the poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the pole joints and shock cord. Instead, fit poles together section by section, making sure that each piece slides completely into the next. Forcing an improperly assembled pole can damage the pole and / or the tent body and fly.

3.Lay the tent body flat. In windy conditions, peg all the floor corners before proceeding.

4.Lay the poles on top of the tent body so that each one crosses diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner; the two poles should cross in the centre to form an X.

5.Attach the pole clips to the canopy.

6.Fit the pole ends into the grommet tabs at the four corners of the tent.

Have one person lift the top of the tent to loft it up as the tension can cause the other poles to pop out. This is the stage when the greatest stress can be placed on the poles. There is often more than one grommet on each webbing tab to increase or decrease the tautness of the tent to compensate for fabric slackening or tightening caused by changes in humidity. When first erecting the tent, it is best to use the outermost (loosest) grommet on each tab.

7.Starting at a point over one of the doors, attach the clips on the tent to the poles.

8.Peg out the corners of the tent.

Most tents are colour-coded to help users put them up easier.

Attaching the Fly

1.Drape the fly over the tent so that the doors in the fly line up with the doors in the canopy.

2.Attach the Velcro wrap-ties to secure the fly onto the poles. They are usually on the underside of the fly on most tents. Attaching these wrap-ties is very important for strengthening the tent. The wrap-ties allow the poles to reinforce one another in a series of trusses; they also connect the corner guy wire attachment points directly to the poles for maximum stiffness when these guy wires are rigged.

3.Fit all of the grommet tabs on the fly over the appropriate pole ends.

Staking and Guying Out the Tent

Attach, peg out, and tension the four corner guy wires. Rather than thick, heavy poles for strength, most tents employ light, sturdy guy wires as part of their structure. This keeps the tents weight low. The design also makes it very important to securely rig the guy wires in any amount of wind. Not doing so could cause the tent to move in the wind (as with any tent, shelter from trees, rock, or snow walls will make for a quieter night under stormy conditions).

The pegs included with a tent are suitable for general use on relatively soft ground. On very hard-packed ground, use stakes that can withstand the force needed to secure them. On snow, sand, or other loose-packed surfaces, wider T-stakes or aluminum snow stakes will hold better; these stakes hold best buried horizontally. Improvise with other stakes (hiking staffs, ice axes, branches, rocks, trees), using the tents stake loops or cord as required.

Ventilating the Tent

Proper ventilation is the key to minimizing condensation in any tent. Some points to consider are: